Making Reusable Cotton Tea Towels on a Loom

Why weave your own tea towels?

There is something deeply satisfying about pulling a length of handwoven cotton off the loom and cutting it into tea towels. Shop-bought towels are often treated with softeners or made from blends that push water around rather than soaking it up. A handwoven cotton towel is different. It is thick where you want it, thin where it needs to be, and it gets better every time you wash it. Weaving your own also lets you use up leftover yarn, control the width and length exactly, and make a set that matches your kitchen. For a UK weaver, a tea towel is the perfect project: small, useful and forgiving.

Choosing absorbent cotton yarn

The single most important choice is the yarn. For absorbency, you want unmercerised cotton. Mercerised cotton is shiny and strong, but the treatment smooths the fibres and reduces their ability to drink water. Unmercerised cotton, sometimes sold as natural or matte cotton, has a slightly fuzzy surface that wicks moisture beautifully.

• 8/2 cotton is the workhorse for tea towels. It is fine enough for a smooth cloth but substantial enough to be durable. Aim for a sett of 16 to 20 ends per inch (epi) in plain weave. 18 epi is a reliable starting point.
• 4/8 cotton or a similar thicker yarn gives a chunkier, more spa-like towel. Use a sett of 12 epi and a slightly looser beat.
• Colours can be natural, or you can add stripes and checks with dyed cotton. Keep the weft the same thickness as the warp for a balanced cloth.
• Avoid cotton blends with polyester or acrylic. They shed microplastics and never become as absorbent as pure cotton.

Calculating warp and planning the cloth

Tea towels need to be a practical size. A good finished measurement is about 45 cm wide by 65 cm long, which fits a standard towel rail and dries quickly. Remember that the loom takes up some length, and the cloth will shrink when washed.

• Width: For a 45 cm finished width, allow 5 cm for draw-in and shrinkage. Warp 50 cm wide. At 18 epi, that is 50 ÷ 2.54 × 18, which is roughly 354 ends. Round to 360.
• Length: Each towel needs 70 cm of woven length, plus 5 cm for hems at each end, plus 10 cm for take-up and shrinkage. That is 90 cm per towel. Add 50 cm of loom waste for threading and tying on.
• Multiple towels: Warping for four towels gives you a 3.6 metre warp plus waste.
• Hem allowance: Leave at least 2.5 cm of plain weave at each end for folding under.

Weaving a balanced plain weave

Plain weave is the right choice for tea towels. It is flat, stable, and absorbs well because the threads interlace closely. A balanced cloth means the number of weft picks per inch matches the warp ends per inch. If you sett the warp at 18 epi, aim for 18 picks per inch (ppi).

• Beat evenly. Use a firm but consistent beat. If you beat too hard, the cloth becomes stiff and board-like. Too softly, and it will be loose and prone to snagging.
• Watch the selvedges. Keep the weft at a gentle angle, about 30 degrees, so the edges do not pull in.
• Change colours for stripes. Two picks of a contrasting colour every few centimetres makes a classic towel stripe. Carry the unused colour up the side, catching it every few picks.
• Leave a hem gap. Between towels, weave four picks of a smooth waste yarn or a contrasting cotton. This gives you a clear cutting line and a little extra for hemming.

Hemming for a long life

A tea towel is only as good as its hem. A loose, fraying edge will unravel in the wash. Take your time here.

• Secure the raw edge as soon as you cut the towels apart. A zigzag stitch on the sewing machine, or a simple overcast by hand, stops the cotton from fraying.
• Press the hem. Fold the edge under by 1 cm, press, then fold again by 1.5 cm and press. This double fold hides the raw edge and gives weight.
• Stitch by machine or hand. A straight machine stitch 2 mm from the folded edge is quick and strong, or use a small running stitch by hand.
• Mitre the corners for a neat finish. Fold the corner diagonally before folding the sides, then tuck the excess inside. Press well.
• Consider hemstitching on the loom before cutting. It creates a decorative, secure edge that many weavers love.

Washing, using and improving

Your new towels will not reach full absorbency until they have been washed a few times. The first wash removes any spinning oils and helps the cotton bloom.

• Wash at 60°C with a normal detergent. Hot water shrinks the cloth slightly and tightens the weave, which is exactly what you want.
• Do not use fabric softener. It coats the cotton fibres with a waxy film that repels water.
• Tumble dry or line dry. Both work well.
• Expect shrinkage. A handwoven towel may shrink by 5 to 10 per cent on the first wash. That is why you wove it a little longer.
• Use and enjoy. The more you wash and use them, the softer and more absorbent they become. A well-made handwoven tea towel can last for years, and it will always be a pleasure to reach for.